Here’s some video of the swell that hit Southern California on December 9th of this year. The footage was filmed at my favorite surf spot, Black’s Beach. Unfortunately, I arrogantly paddled out with my 6′4″ shortboard when I really needed a gun that was at the very least 7′ long. Needless to say, I was properly humbled again by Mother Nature and I shook off my summer over-confidence (or should I say it was shaken off me). After 30 minutes or so of dodging monster outside clean up sets, I paddled my ass back in alive and with a newfound appreciation for the power of Black’s on a winter swell. Next time I’ll be prepared!
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