Archive for the 'Video' Category

Here’s some video of the swell that hit Southern California on December 9th of this year. The footage was filmed at my favorite surf spot, Black’s Beach. Unfortunately, I arrogantly paddled out with my 6′4″ shortboard when I really needed a gun that was at the very least 7′ long. Needless to say, I was properly humbled again by Mother Nature and I shook off my summer over-confidence (or should I say it was shaken off me). After 30 minutes or so of dodging monster outside clean up sets, I paddled my ass back in alive and with a newfound appreciation for the power of Black’s on a winter swell. Next time I’ll be prepared!