Here is some video from the back of the waves at Ollie’s Point. We had just surfed for almost 4 hours and were exhausted. When this video was taken, the waves died down so you can imagine the size earlier in the day!
Archive for the 'Surfing' Category
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Tamarindo. Costa Rica. My new favorite place in the world. I recently got back from a 12-day surf safari where I stayed at Witch’s Rock Surf Camp. Normally I would write a large entry on all of my adventures and thoughts. But this trip is beyond words. For once, I find it difficult to write about my experience there. In fact I would go so far to say that the experience transcends the written word. Much like seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time or being in love (corny, yes, but to hell with it).
What did I do on the trip? Surf. Surf my guts out. Surf till my arms, back, elbows, and shoulders groaned with pain. Surfed till my armpits were rubbed raw. Surfed till my lips blistered and my skin darkened and my eyes became dazed red pits of dryed-out sun-burned shells. Surfed, gloriously surfed.
Big Tuesday- December 4, 2007: Giant waves slam California Coast
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Due to a large storm spinning off of the California coast, San Diego gets slammed by massive surf. Waves were coming in consistently at 10′-12′ and the set waves were maxing at 18′. Last December I intrepidly tried to go out in similar sized surf and had to paddle back in without catching a single wave (unless you consider getting almost drowned on the way in “catching” a wave). This time though I was ready. I’ve been swimming laps regularly and practicing holding my breath, plus I was equipped with my 7′ gun. After a brutal paddle out I made it to the break and started dialing in the waves. Boards were getting broken all around and I took a few set waves on the head. But after about 3 hours I managed to catch 2 waves; one wave was in contention for being the biggest wave I’ve caught to date. Worth it? Of course!
Fing rocks Overload!
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Local San Diego rock band Fing honored Overload this weekend by agreeing to play a show in conjunction with the monthly “Ray at Night” art festival occurring in North Park. I built 2 additional stages but unfortunately underestimated the amount of sound equipment the band had. So after some brainstorming and some quick thinking we were able to construct a multi-level stage that was able to fit all of their equipment. Although it was raining outside, that didn’t stop the crowds from showing up and when Fing started to play the shop was full. They played a great set and a good time was had by all! If you get a chance to see this band live or pick up their music I highly recommend it!
Continuing to satisfy my hunger for all things skating and surfing, I recently picked up some new toys to add to the collection.
Top of the list: I picked up two new surfboards (off Craig’sList off course). The first was a 6′2″ Lost Speed Demon (which may now be my favorite board) and the second board was a 6′0″ quad-fin fish (which will be my summer board).
Also something I’ve been wanting to buy for some time, I managed to land a sweet deal on a 8′x4′ utility trailer. Where did I get it? Craig’sList of course! This trailer is awesome and I now can carry around lumber and all of my skate stuff.
Which leads me to my final new item: the dual-height funbox. I based this design off of a funbox I built about 4 years ago and was one of my favorite fun boxes. I never built another one because I didn’t have a pickup truck to carry it anymore. Enter the utility trailer! We’ve had a few Sunday skate sessions on it and it is holding up well and liked by all.
I added a few pics below but you can always go to the main gallery here for more pictures.
I just wanted to share this amazing experience. Saturday I was out surfing at my favorite surf spot, Black’s Beach, with my 2 friends. The weather was absolutely perfect, the waves were great, the water was clear, and the wind was slightly offshore. About 5 minutes after we got in I noticed what I originally thought was an albino porpoise surface briefly then dive back underwater. Soon after, I saw a group of surfers gather around the area and I started hearing everyone saying it was a whale. Not one minute later what surfaces about 15 feet in front of me? A whale! It was amazing. I would guess it was about 20 to 25 feet long and maybe a few tons. It slowly breached the surface for a breath of air and then, just as gracefully, vanished beneath the surface again. I was so close I could see individual barnacles on it’s body. It was, without a doubt, one of the more memorable experiences I’ve had and something I hope I never forget.
Here’s some video of the swell that hit Southern California on December 9th of this year. The footage was filmed at my favorite surf spot, Black’s Beach. Unfortunately, I arrogantly paddled out with my 6′4″ shortboard when I really needed a gun that was at the very least 7′ long. Needless to say, I was properly humbled again by Mother Nature and I shook off my summer over-confidence (or should I say it was shaken off me). After 30 minutes or so of dodging monster outside clean up sets, I paddled my ass back in alive and with a newfound appreciation for the power of Black’s on a winter swell. Next time I’ll be prepared!